T

he Hoshinoya hotels — part ryokan, part luxury hotel — are all similar in their basic concept. But while the monumental Hoshinoya Tokyo stands in a skyscraper in the heart of the capital, Hoshinoya Kyoto could hardly be more different. It’s small, a mere 25 rooms, distributed among a collection of low-profile buildings. And despite its name, it’s set not in Kyoto proper, but a 15-minute ride up the river in a traditional wooden boat.

The architecture is unmistakably Japanese but also unmistakably modern, and the interiors are a delightful update on ryokan convention, dressed in modern colors and subtle graphic patterns. The rooms are as comfortable as can be, though far from opulent, passing over high-tech diversions like televisions in favor of tranquil views through vast windows and — perhaps the most memorable feature — beautiful cypress soaking tubs.

Spa treatments are available in-room, and a wide variety of traditional Japanese cultural experiences are on offer as well, from ikebana lessons to Zen meditation. Among the most venerable traditions in ryokan life, of course, is the local cuisine — Kyoto’s culinary heritage is a rich one, and here chef Ichiro Kubota applies techniques and knowledge from all around the world to a menu drawn from hyper-local, hyper-seasonal ingredients.