C

arcassonne is the largest walled citadel in Europe, and the Hôtel de la Cité sits behind the ancient fortifications, with the Romanesque Château Comtal and the Gothic Basilica of Saint-Nazaire as its neighbors. Though the citadel’s ramparts date back to the 13th century, and the original Roman village some seven hundred years before that, the Hotel de la Cité is not quite one hundred years old. In its current incarnation as a member of the MGallery Collection, however, it looks like something straight out of the 15th century, the rooms packed with antique furniture and ornate woodwork, and stained-glass windows adding color to the sunlight.

Some rooms open onto balconies or terraces overlooking the ramparts of the citadel, while others look out windows onto the narrow cobblestone streets — only conveniences like air contitioning, satellite television and spacious modern bathrooms break the illusion of time travel.

The Michelin-starred Barbacane restaurant is, for many, almost worth the trip in itself; you haven’t had cassoulet until you’ve had it here, and the chef is available for lessons, in case you’d like to attempt your own. A more casual brasserie and summertime terrace restaurant round out the gastronomic options, and guests sip cocktails to the tune of gentle piano accompaniment in the library bar. The only downside is that, sooner or later, you have to return to the twenty-first century, at least until you can spare the time to visit again.

Please note: The hotel is located within the fortress structure with restricted vehicle access.

How to get there: Hôtel de la Cité is approximately a one-hour drive from Toulouse Blagnac International Airport. You can reach the hotel by train from Toulouse in a little over an hour as well.