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raditionally, bathing is somewhat of a ritual in Japan (to put it rather mildly), and to go to an onsen ryokan — a ryokan with natural hot-spring baths — is to get a quick in-depth lesson on this aspect of the culture. So it should be expected that at Oncri, in the southern prefecture of Shiga, the bathing facilities are just as much an attraction as the recently renovated guest rooms and the pair of locavore restaurants.

The water of the Furuyu hot spring is known for being a bit tepid, at about 100°F — a point that serious onsen-goers count in its favor, as the mild waters allow for longer, more indulgent soaks. There’s the standard indoor bath, a walking bath (for wading), and six kinds of outdoor baths, including the fragrant hinoki cypress tub and the waterfall-like streaming bath. Somewhere among all the options you’re sure to discover a soaking style that suits your particular fancy.

The guest rooms are furnished in either traditional or modern styles (tatami mats and low seating or sofas and beds, respectively), and all come with a view of the verdant mountains. If you prefer a bit more interior personality, there are also the Atelier rooms, which feature winning pieces from an art competition hosted by the ryokan.

After some relaxing soaks and some good seasonal meals at Oncri’s Italian and Japanese restaurants, you might come away with a new perspective on the idea of a spa retreat. Either way, you’ll surely have had one of the more high-pleasure lessons available in traditional Japanese culture.