T

hey used to call it “White House, Denver.” After all, every president since Teddy Roosevelt has slept here. And just like the White House, there’s something democratic about the Brown Palace’s grandeur. The two American kings, Elvis and John Wayne, were guests, while deposed European royalty, Russian counts and German barons worked as barbers and head waiters in order to make a decent dollar. Bandit Buffalo Bill held court here year-round. And while Woodrow Wilson might have spent the night, so did stripper Tempest Storm (separately, we presume).

Most rooms, as is the case with many historic grand hotels, are on the smallish side, paneled in walnut and vaguely Art Deco, but with small bathtubs and low desks. The best rooms are the presidential suites — Reagan, Roosevelt, and Eisenhower. They’re a bit on the kitsch side — decorated, as they are, according to each president’s aesthetic taste — but they’re frankly enjoyable. Though we can’t resist the idea of the Reagan, the best of the three is the Eisenhower. After all, he and his administration used to live here for the entire summer, and the fireplace is still dented from all his indoor golf practice. The living room is cowboy, the bedroom is apricot and fluffy à la his wife Mamie, and the bathroom is a bit out of place, but luxurious all the same — pale and sleekly 1930s.

Regardless of your room, however, the downstairs is as magnificent as ever. It’s a good place to soak up the local scene as well. Have tea in the eight-story atrium lobby, with its velvet red galleries and wrought iron railings, which was once used to display cattle for the annual stock show. Check out the cigar bar, which has been the chicest place to have a smoke ever since Teddy Roosevelt passed out 15,000 cigars during a fundraising banquet. For breakfast, join the Colorado politicos at the restaurant Ellyngton, which serves an oatmeal that is supposedly the governor’s favorite.