T

he name may require some explaining: in French a hôtel particulier is not necessarily a lodging-for-hire, but simply a free-standing townhouse, one surrounded by a garden courtyard rather than adjoining the house next door. So it’s a kind of understated boast, perhaps, in addition to being an economical description of the place; the key to the appeal of the Hôtel Particulier Montmartre is that it’s little more than a private house, hidden away in a courtyard down a cobblestone alley up on the hill in Montmartre.

Of course it’s not just any house. This one’s a stunning Directoire-style mansion, split up into just five suites that are packed with personality. Some of it comes from the artwork—each room is designed by a different contemporary artist—but much of it comes from the owners’ keen decorating eye and eclectic collection of classic furniture.

The contrast between the classic house and the bold, contemporary interiors is only half the point. The other half is the atmosphere, which is not just thrillingly mysterious, hidden away as it is, but once inside feels as much like a private home as you can feel without being asked to help out with the dishes. The house, the gardens, the art, the hospitality—in sum, it’s about as far as you can get from the typical Parisian hotel experience. And yes, that’s a good thing.