T

hough we’re great admirers of many of Japan’s urban hotels, we urge anyone who will listen to get out of the city for a bit and check into a ryokan. This is taking that advice quite literally. All the way out in Yamaguchi Prefecture, at the extreme western end of Japan’s main island of Honshū, is where you’ll find Bettei Otozure, in the mountains near Nagato City. Like so much of rural Japan, it’s a place that’s reasonably accessible, thanks to a world-class rail network; but like all the best places in rural Japan, once you’re there it’s another world entirely.

It’s a very traditional form of hospitality, but that doesn’t mean it’s stuck in the past. The suites are a mixture of tatami-style floor-level furnishings and some Western design classics, looking for all the world like a ryokan reconsidered for a design-conscious modern world — which is, of course, more or less exactly what it is. The presence of electronic amenities and luxury-hotel comforts is a bit of a surprise, but they do nothing to distract from the main event, which is, as always, the view of the sublime Japanese countryside, in this case seen through floor-to-ceiling windows. And in typical style there’s a decided emphasis on bathing — either communally, at the main baths, or privately, en suite, in the open air.

Please note: Bettei Otozure does not accept children under the age of 13.

How to get there: Bettei Otozure is 15 minutes by car from Nagato Yumoto JR station. Free transfer is available if arranged in advance. Yamaguchi Ube airport (UBJ) is 70 minutes by car and Fukuoka International Airport (FUK) is 150 minutes by car.

Booking Details: Bettei Otozure requires additional information from guests to ensure the best stay possible. As such, reservations can only be confirmed through our customer service team. Contact us for assistance. Rates begin at JPY134200 per night.