B

y now the staggering natural beauty of British Columbia’s Pacific coast is something of an open secret — and it’s hard to think of a place more spectacular than the west coast of Vancouver Island, where the Wickaninnish Inn sits between a lush old-growth forest and a mile-long beach, just minutes from the township of Tofino yet remote enough to feel like the edge of the world.

A cut-rate motor inn, placed in these surroundings, would probably attract a devoted following; fortunately there’s a world-class hotel to match the inspiring locale. Rooms in both the original Wickaninnish-At-the-Pointe and the 2003 addition of Wickaninnish-On-the-Beach are spacious, and spare no luxury, from king and queen beds to gas fireplaces, private balconies, and enormous tubs. All rooms face the beach and the Pacific, and down duvets and heavy bathrobes keep guests warm through the wettest winter storms.

Staffers are gregarious and warm, even for Canada; but friendly doesn’t mean casual — service is utterly professional, stopping just short of fawning. And The Pointe Restaurant is no departure; though casual, this is some of the finest dining in the Northwest, showcasing fresh seafood, local produce, and a generous selection of the region’s best wines.

And though it may be tempting to stay in, and soak in the hospitality, Tofino has plenty to offer as well, from whale-watching to surfing and even some restaurants to rival The Pointe. Then again, why venture outside, when the hotel is home to the Ancient Cedars Spa, offering everything from traditional beauty treatments to hot stone massage and thalassotherapy.

Dedicated layabouts take note; the winter season offers reduced rates, and if you don’t need to spend much time in the sun, this is the time to visit, as the spectacle of twenty-foot waves washing over Chesterman Beach is truly one to behold — not to mention the soporific effect of the sound of that famed Pacific Northwest rain.

How to get there:
Wickaninnish Inn is accessible by both ferry and airplane. Ferries depart from north and south of Vancouver at Horseshoe Bay and Tsawwassen and from Seattle and Washington State. From Vancouver, flights take approximately 45 minutes and depart from the South Terminal of Vancouver International Airport.