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t’s fair to say Ugenta, a two-room, 200-year-old ryokan in the mountain woods just outside Kyoto, isn’t exactly designed to maximize profits. Put it this way: they’ve got as many teahouses as they have guest rooms, one built a century ago by the current owner’s grandfather for formal tea ceremonies, and a newer, glass-walled one surrounded by a cedar grove for casual sipping. It would have been easy enough to convert one of them into a third guest room — but then your host’s attention would be that much less focused, and you might have to enjoy your exquisite cup of tea in a setting that’s not precisely in tune with the morning’s mood.

The two guest rooms differ in style: there’s a traditional Japanese-style option, which sleeps up to six (or utterly spoils two), and there’s a slightly Westernized one, which very comfortably fits four. The differences are subtle — a sunken or raised dining room table, an enclosed wood stove or a fireplace encased in glass, a view of the gorge or a view of the river. In both, the aesthetic is meticulously pared down in a way that shifts the focus to the outside world. And either way you’ve got a pair of inviting bathtubs, one indoor and one outdoor. (For the record, the right choice is outdoor, where the views, the sounds of the river and fresh forest air are all a little more immediate.)

Even for a ryokan, Ugenta offers some extraordinary meals. In summer, diners are seated on a deck that hovers just a couple of feet above the river. It’s one thing to eat local; it’s quite another to eat fresh fish that was caught from the water flowing under your table, surrounded by mossy river rocks and fragrant cedars. In winter, meals move inside to the privacy of your room, and the menu turns to heartier fare like hot pot soup, mountain vegetables and wild boar. Whatever the season, this much is certain: you’re sure to be well taken care of.

Please note: Children under 13 are not allowed at Ugenta. Significant dietary restrictions cannot be accommodated by the hotel’s kitchen. Vegetarians in particular will have extremely limited options, as even vegetable dishes are prepared with fish stock.

How to get there: Ugenta can arrange complimentary shuttle service from Kibune station if arranged in advance.

Booking Details: Ugenta requires additional information from guests to ensure the best stay possible. As such, reservations can only be confirmed through our customer service team. Contact us for assistance. Rates begin at 124200 JPY per night.