T

here was a time, in the first half of the twentieth century, when a stay at Gleneagles was an obligatory entry on anyone's society calendar - in fact before 1982, the hotel was only open during the summer, when the beautiful people made a point of venturing northward from London for a Scottish golfing holiday. The travel industry has of course changed with the times, and Gleneagles has changed with it - the hotel is now open year-round, and London socialites are likely to rub elbows with more and more international golf enthusiasts.

Though its grand scale and its strong sense of tradition may seem imposing, Gleneagles is really no more formal than any private country club, and the staff's particular brand of Scottish hospitality is more warm and hearty than gruff. The guest rooms are decorated in the prevailing Scottish hotel style, with minimal, muted colors and rich antiques and fabrics creating a strange contrast, a blend of old-world opulence and modern Zen.

Restaurants include Andrew Fairlie, where the cuisine is “unashamedly French but with a Scottish twist.” For those in search of unashamedly Scottish fare, there is Strathearn, which does have a dress code (leave the denim in your room). The informal Dormy overlooks the golf courses, and The Club is the fun, contemporary venue.

Golf is obviously one of the big draws at Gleneagles (though non-golfers will find the hotel itself delightful). The King's Course dates back to 1919, and its holes are all named in impenetrable Scottish dialect, like Het Girdle, which apparently means "Hot Pan." The Queen's course is known for its picturesque beauty, but is not exactly a pushover in terms of difficulty. The Wee Course, is, well, wee, a nine-hole par 3, and the Centenary Course is the modern Jack Nicklaus-designed addition.

How to get there:
Gleneagles is approximately 50 miles from both Glasgow and Edinburgh. Chauffeur service and self-driven cars can be arranged from either of these airports. There is a Gleneagles rail station on the main London-Inverness line, and transfers can be arranged from there as well. Arrangements can even be made to land helicopters at the hotel.