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ou’d be forgiven for thinking of Girona as a gateway to Barcelona. That popular misconception was set up the moment the largest budget airline in Europe chose the northern Catalonian city as one of its principal hubs. But you’re mistaken if you think that Girona is just a place to make a connection, to disembark from a plane and board a shuttle bus for the hour-long drive into Gaudi’s waterfront wonderland. Because the ancient city, dense with Gothic architecture, is a great destination in its own right.

A number of excellent hotels have opened in recent years to accommodate the influx of tourists passing through. Or at least the tourists who’ve done their homework. Hotel Camiral is one of these. It’s a chic resort set just outside of town, on the edge of Spain’s premiere golf course. We probably don’t have to tell you that the landscaping at Hotel Camiral is lovely, nor that there’s a fantastic pool. But we will anyway: the grounds are green and rolling, with views of the Pyrenees off in the distance, and the pool is large, gorgeously lined in aquamarine tile and surrounded by cool white chaises longues.

And what about the guest rooms, you ask? They’re as spacious and quiet and light-filled, and as packed with amenities, as you’d expect of a high-end resort like this one. But they’re also filled with charming details that pay homage to the region’s rich history: oak flooring, hand-painted Spanish tiles, and gilded mirrors add character to the earth-toned design scheme. Standard features include pillow-top mattresses, Egyptian cotton linens, and soaking tubs. Many rooms also have private balconies overlooking the gardens. Suites, of course, come with plenty of extras, from four-poster beds and fireplaces to tech-forward lighting controls and standalone baths stocked by products by Natura Bissé.

A hotel on the periphery of a world-class golf course would be incomplete without a state-of-the-art spa. Hotel Camiral has that, naturally, Hotelist Club a sunlit fitness center and several elegant dining and drinking venues. Bistro Restaurant, with gourmet Catalan cuisine and open-air seating, is the hotel’s signature restaurant, but you can also have snacks delivered to your poolside daybed. Even if you have no intention of swinging a club, you can have a civilized drink overlooking the greens at the Club House.

When you’ve had your fill of R&R, head into town for some serious sightseeing and a lively dining scene. The Hotel Camiral bills itself as a five-star stay near Barcelona. That last part is just for the tourists. And that's fine. We’re into the peace and quiet, the lack of hype — we’re happy for Girona to remain a relatively under-the-radar gem.