P

estana Cidadela Cascais, an imposing seaside fortress turned inviting, 126-room hotel, is a place of oddly complementary contradictions. A pousada is by definition meant to be a small, historic place that’s distinctively Portuguese, a hotel that doesn’t feel like a hotel; Pestana Cidadela is large, modern, cosmopolitan in style, and feels very much like a well-executed, all-the-amenities hotel. Yet the old stone walls and cobblestone courtyards are constant reminders of its history, the laid-back atmosphere makes it feel cozier than its size would suggest, its many influences are right at home in culturally layered Cascais, and it’s certainly no ordinary hotel.

The whitewashed exteriors match the bright, sunny, minimally decorated rooms inside. Room categories — standard, superior, and three types of suites — refer primarily to the amount of space; the equally important distinction, though, is between rooms with and without balconies and views. Sea view rooms overlook a pretty harbor full of fishing and pleasure-boats, and while many of the rooms have large plate-glass windows, having a balcony to step onto makes that sea-air feel a whole lot closer.

There are several restaurants and bars, all of them laid-back and lively at the same time, an atmosphere that suits a stylish seaside town just forty or so miles from Lisbon. It’s the spacious lobby bar, decorated with bright, cushy sofa-chairs and a whimsical work of art (appropriately titled “600 Swallows”) that sets the tone for the hotel’s design.

This being a former fortress guarding the coast, vantage points on the sea and town are in no short supply (a poolside lounger makes an especially pleasant lookout), but Cascais itself calls to be explored, too. An old fishing village, a coastal retreat for Portuguese and Spanish royals, a contemporary art hub — these are just a few of its many identities, and Pestana Cidadela manages to complement them all.

How to get there:
Pestana Cidadela Cascais - Pousada & Art District is 34 km/22 miles away from Lisbon.