T

he Pacific coast of Oaxaca isn’t exactly undiscovered, but it’s pleasantly under-developed, probably because it’s still satisfyingly tough to get to. Boutique hotels were understandably rather late reaching places like Mazunte — in a tropical paradise like this, you’d be happy with the most rudimentary lodging. But the advent of a place like the Cocolia Hotel marks the beginning of a new era; finally this fantastic destination has a small but stylish and full-featured hotel to call its own.

To call this an eco-hotel would be an understatement. Electricity is limited to essential appliances only, and while on paper it’s close to the town and the beaches, it’s a steep climb back to the hotel, most easily accomplished via ATV — it’s twenty minutes or more on foot, with limited access by taxi. What you gain from all of this is a proper low-tech escape, and the kind of seclusion a more connected hotel can’t possibly match.

Naturally, Playa Mermejita beach is a strong attraction, as are those at Mazunte and San Agustinillo. But Cocolia is capable of offering a nearly self-contained experience, if a small-scale one. Each of its 28 bungalows feels private, even though they’re open to the breeze, and the views are impressive, both in-room and from the hotel’s central saltwater pool.

There’s a cocktail bar and a cascade of terraced lounge space, as well as a restaurant, whose menu combines Mexican traditions and contemporary health-conscious (and vegan-friendly) cuisine. And like any paradise, it’s blessed with all sorts of natural wonders, like Mazunte’s Sea Turtle Center and the stunning Ventanilla Lagoon.