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e’ve all been there — returning from a trip, high on the heady rush of travel, perhaps a bit overly enthusiastic about the cuisine and music and cultural traditions of the places where we’ve been — and assuming our friends really want to see our vacation snapshots. Lisbon native João Antonio Santos has been there, too. After an inspiring (and lucrative) stint in Brazil, he returned to Portugal in 1909 and constructed an opulent Brazilian Art Nouveau mansion on the outskirts of Alfama, the oldest neighborhood in Lisbon. At the time, his showmanship was a topic of conversation among aristocratic types. Today, the restored Palacete Chafariz D'El Rei is a favorite among the art, film, and fashion set. And, frankly, anyone else who can afford it.

The architecture is, of course, a major part of the novelty: there aren’t too many buildings like the Palacete on this side of the Atlantic. The neo-Moorish place is turn-of-the-century romantic, gilded and gorgeous, almost over-the-top, and much of the original stained glass, tile, moldings, and antiques remain. But the place has been smartly updated by a Spanish-Portuguese couple in a manner that shows both a respect for history and a quirky modern design sensibility. Beneath a glittering chandelier and stuccoed ceiling, for instance, you’ll find a sixties-style tulip table and a pair of mushroom chairs; a cheerful cherry red throw rug adds warmth to antique hardwood floors, circular lighted mirrors hang in the sleek modern bathrooms.

There are just six suites. Each has a distinct look and different in-room features: private balconies, large flat-screen TVs and complimentary wi-fi are standard across the board. The so-called Grand Torreão Grandious represents the top of the line: the massive suite is spread across three floors and features a terrace with panoramic views and a telescope. If it seems lavish, it is: that’s the idea. They could have squeezed at least twice as many rooms into the palace, but as it is, Palacete Chafariz D'El Rei feels like an exclusive getaway. With so few other guests around, you’ll practically have the run of the place; exquisitely furnished public spaces include the library, a dining room lined with imported Brazilian wood, a charming study that’s perfect for cocktails on a rainy afternoon, and the Jardim, or terrace garden, an ideal venue for breakfast.

Please note: Palacete Chafariz D'El Rei cannot accommodate children under the age of twelve.